Before we describe how it’s done, note that
we recommend that the result be checked as having sufficient brightness
for a stop & tail-light application. That’s because the light output
may be inadequate, depending on the tail-light lens and reflector
assembly – so use any modified lamps with discretion! As shown, an
additional diode (D1) and resistor (68W) provide power from the “tail”
circuit. Alternatively, when the “stop” circuit is powered, the resistor
is bypassed by D2, thus increasing the LED current and the light output.
Modifications to the lamp assembly instructions are as follows:
- After soldering in the copper tube but before soldering the
platform board to the bayonet lamp base, the three components inside the
dotted box must be wired up inside the base.
*The anode leads of the diodes can be soldered directly into the
contacts (“bumps”) on the base (a fine file or glass paper may be needed
to get a nice round shape). Everything must be insulated (use
The red wire from the Multidisc board is then soldered to the
junction of D2 and the resistor. The black wire is soldered directly the
metal casing of the lamp. We suggest testing the lamp before soldering
the platform board in place. It may be necessary to vary the value of
the additional resistor to get the correct intensity change between stop
& tail modes.